Postcards From Tulum, Mexico

“As if you were fire from within, the moon lives in the lining of your skin” – Pablo Neruda 

What you see and what he or she sees will always be more different than similar, at least this is what I think. I could tell you stories about a certain place or an experience, but you’ll have your own to create. But I also believe in the power of inspiring others through words and pictures (and music, too). They can take you to places. I like to know what to expect going into a restaurant hence I usually read menus ahead; I browse attractions because I want to make the most out of everything but more importantly I like to anticipate. I love the anticipation of everything. A lot of times I find myself building up anticipation and when it gets really near I wish it wouldn’t happen – because when it happens it also ends. And I don’t want things to end. I’ve explained this irony of mine to close friends before.

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Tulum was a sweet and spontaneous getaway. It was not something on my travel list. I remembered how we were sitting in a coffee shop in the Lower East Side of Manhattan. It was snowing outside, we were craving for the sun. Then we started browsing for places to go and saw really cheap flight tickets to Tulum. We’ve been seeing Tulum all over Instagram. It looked a little less touristy than the resorts in Cancun, yet quirky and a little hippie. So just like that we bought our tickets. This was also my first time to Mexico so it was really exciting.

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My Tulum Pocket Notes:

  • It’s 1.5 hours away from Cancun (where you’ll fly in) and you can either rent a car, split a cab with your companions or take a bus. I read many reviews about how good the bus service is and though we wanted to try, the timing did not work out for us so we traveled by cab instead.
  • Bring cash! It would just make your travels 10 times easier and the currency exchange is way better than swiping your credit card or using USD.
  • Mosquito repellent – I grew up in a tropical country but I am deadly afraid of mosquitos because they love me…
  • It’s helpful to speak un poquito Espanol because most cab drivers barely speak English in Tulum, and you get to engage more with the locals. It’s also helpful when you order food. For the most part we were able to get by with our very basic Spanish (I wish I could speak Spanish fluently, it’s just so useful)!
  • I also managed to purchase a local prepaid phone card at a convenient store.

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Tulum gives me all the lush vibes, with every single corner being extremely picturesque. A basic geography of Tulum – it’s made up of Tulum town and the beach area. The beach area is where you’ll find all the stunning resorts and of course, the sea, but it’s also way more touristy. Tulum town is a 10-min drive from the beach, or do it like us and bike 45 minutes there (it was quite the workout but Tulum itself is very bike-friendly). The town is where the locals live and you’ll find cheap, local delicacies. Our airbnb was in Tulum town and looking back I’m really happy we stayed in town because we got to see and experience Tulum as a whole. I think one would less likely explore and wander around town if living in the beach area. Also Tulum happens to be extremely vegan-friendly (this was the healthiest I’ve ever been on a trip). I think it’s because it is heavily influence by health-conscious folks that settled down in Tulum. In a way, we thought Tulum would be less Americanized (unlike Cancun), but realized we were under the wrong impression as soon as we got there.

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To Explore / To Do:

  • Casa Malca (Pablo’s Mansion) – Casa Malca has a little story behind it. This mansion was once owned by an infamous drug lord, Pablo Escobar, and it was abandoned for many years after he passed away. After that an art dealer turned this place into a luxury boutique hotel filled with his art collection and furniture. We were truly amazed by how beautifully curated this space was. I mean, when else does one see arm chairs swings and massive colorful rugs, also curtains and drapes casually being suspended from “the sky”? I really liked this place because it sort of felt like a mini art exhibit in a place you wouldn’t expect to find, not to mention the fact that it is a perfect photo spot.
  • Grand Cenote – There are many cenote surrounding Tulum, and we chose to visit the Grand Cenote since it was one of the more famous ones. Cenotes are essentially natural holes usually found in caves. And no, I can’t swim but I was quite excited for a dip, until we got there and saw how overcrowded the cenote was. It felt just like a swimming pool. I think the whole instagram vs. reality thing hit us too hard on this (facepalm). Also, I grew up in Borneo Island, where the sea and snorkeling experience is truly one of the most breathtaking things on earth. Hence my advice is – go super early to beat the crowd so you can make the most out of the experience. There are many cenote to visit around Tulum, and some may be less crowded than others. Despite the underwhelming experience, the water was crystal clear in a deep blue color and it was a unique sight to take in.
  • Parque Nacional Tulum – We explored one of the many Mayan ruins Mexico is known for. We did not sign up for any of the tours and chose to walk on our own. It can feel like a short hike so definitely wear comfy shoes. And don’t go at noon like we did because we were melting under the sun.
  • Yoga Class – Tulum is one of the most popular places where people attend yoga retreats and training. I highly recommend taking a drop-in yoga class at any one of the resorts in the beach area. We weren’t expecting much when we signed up for a sunset yoga class, but wow, it was such a wonderful and rejuvenating experience. We took our class at Sanara Tulum.

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To Eat:

  • El Camello – This was our first meal in Tulum, and it’s also our favorite meal of the trip. When you see locals dining here, you know you’re at the right place. Absolutely loved the fried fish and seafood soup we had, also the fact that there was unlimited tortilla chips. I’d say this is a must.
  • Raw Love Tulum – I don’t know how else to describe this place other than it was made for instagram. We went to both locations (in Tulum town and beach area) because we loved it so much. Everything on the menu is vegan. I will never get over their açaí bowls, smoothies and raw chocolate cake.
  • The Real Coconut – The most special meal we had in Tulum. Just like its name, everything on the menu is coconut-based. Think coconut vegan cream cheese, coconut flour tacos, coconut dressing… Even though it was one of the pricier meals, it was so worth it because the flavors were so creative and interesting, nothing like we’ve had before. If you love coconut, don’t miss this spot. It also has a beautiful dining balcony overlooking the sea.
  • Posada Margherita – When a friend recommended pizza in Tulum, I was highly skeptical. Yet it was so delicious. The fact that – the owner is Italian, the dough is made to order and it’s baked in a wood-fired oven, I don’t know how else it could go wrong.
  • DelCielo – Bustling brunch spot in Tulum town. We loved everything we ordered, but I wouldn’t say it’s a must. If you’re craving for a delicious, classic American brunch though, this is the place to go.
  • Antojitos La Chiapaneca – Amazing and authentic tacos for just 50 cents each. I have no words.
  • Gitano – I think we can all agree that this is the most romantic restaurant / bar in Tulum. It’s famous for the interior, but cocktails were mediocre and on the pricier side. But everything about the interior screams ROMANTIC, it’s hard for one to not fall in love with the space.
  • Matcha Mama – Super cute matcha stall selling drinks, and it’s decorated with plants, string lights and photo-worthy swings.
  • Campanella Cremeria – A nice spot for gelato and they have a lot of tropical fruit flavors. I didn’t love it in particular (sorry, very picky with my ice-cream) but it’s a popular spot.
  • Casa Jaguar – This place made me feel like I was dining in a very beautiful jungle, as we were surrounded by tall palm trees. The food itself was mediocre, yet the ambience itself was a sensory indulgent.

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Where We Stayed: A cozy & beautifully decorated airbnb, which is part of an apartment hotel. Our host was lovely, and we got a two-bedroom unit all to ourselves. The actual unit is true to the photos listed. I love all the wood furniture, and we got plenty of natural lighting. If you’re looking for a place to stay in Tulum town, I highly recommend this listing. Click here for the link.

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Tulum is like this sweet oasis near enough to the states for a short, sunny getaway without having to break the bank. A getaway that you could have just as much fun even if you went unplanned. It has everything one may need to recharge, rejuvenate, and let loose. For now there are way too many island escape for me to explore, but maybe I’ll find myself back here before even knowing it.

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Postcards from Quebec City

“Stuff your eyes with wonder, he said, live as if you’d drop dead in ten seconds. See the world. It’s more fantastic than any dream made or paid for in factories.” – Ray Bradbury 

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My tendency to procrastinate when blogging stems from the expectations I have for each post. From word choices to every photo that I carefully select that would make the cut, and all the nit-picking things I notice (in which most people wouldn’t). I have so many content ideas I want to create, but I realize this wish to perfect my posts is what’s preventing me from sharing, to let the words flow naturally and trust that a story will be told, that someone reading this will understand. Okay, rant over. This post is dedicated to a Canadian gem.
Three hours drive from Montreal, Quebec City isn’t a destination to skip. Driving into the city and seeing the changes in scenery but most importantly architecture, I didn’t forget where I was, but it took a minute or two to convince myself this fairy tale-like place does exist within Canada. I have never been to Europe (and Prague is the first city I wish to step foot in when I do go) but surely there will be lots of landscapes and buildings as beautiful as this, or better; but I’m finding a little fairy tale in Canada, and it is so special.

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To Taste: Saint-Henri Micro-Torrefacteur

Saint-Henri is how I would love to start my mornings if living in Quebec City. Spacious, with floor-to-ceiling windows letting a whole lot of natural lighting in and wooden everything. It makes a great space to get work done as well. This was also where I had one of the best pistachio chocolate croissant of my life, we were lucky to grab the last one on the shelf (!!!!). Also I don’t think one could miss out getting a donut (or six) from their drool-worthy donut case, they have really interesting flavors to choose from.

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Wander: Old Quebec

Ah this neighbourhood is everything precious. Again I have never been to Europe hence wandering the cobblestones and admiring pretty balconies is the closest experience I have. All I wanted to do was explore every single street and discover all the hidden alleys, to let the unknown surprise me, to see where they would take me.

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If you happen to be one that finds joy exploring by foot like me, you could easily spend the whole day wandering through this storybook-like place. I would not have stumbled upon the beautiful view (the first photo) of Old Quebec had we not choose to walk everywhere.

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We had pasta and pizza for dinner at Portofino Bistro. I didn’t keep photos of what we ate but I remembered it was a good meal. The dining options in Old Quebec are endless.

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To See: Fairmont Le Château Frontenac

A Quebec City classic landmark, this majestic heritage hotel overlooks the Saint Lawrence river in Old Quebec. What I loved even more was the courtyard area around the hotel, where one could take a scenic stroll or just sit and relax. There was a busker playing jazz, and with all the tourists and locals walking around, it felt livelier than ever.

Visit: Maison de la Littérature Library

This library is what a minimalist’s dreams are made of. It was definitely one of the most beautiful libraries I’ve come across, I was so in love with all the pendant lights hanging across the high ceiling. The amount of natural lighting and bright walls makes it the perfect study space.
Although French is the official language in Quebec, we didn’t find it too tricky to navigate around aside from the fact that street signs got a little confusing. Our airbnb wasn’t located in Old Quebec yet it was a nice 30-minute walk, with plenty of stores around. I would say it’s a fairly walkable city (although it was still quite chilly in April).
Other must-eats are crepes, smoked meat and poutine. I did have poutine but it wasn’t life changing (like how everyone claimed it to be). Perhaps I didn’t go to the right one, or I’m just not a huge fan of poutine in general (please forgive me, ha)!
Quebec city is a lovely place to visit for a day or two, a weekend trip would be more than perfect to soak up all the European vibes. I’d love to come back during the warmer months, to see every little thing come alive.

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|| iPhone 6s | shot and edited by me || 
xx Sam 

Postcards from Montreal

“It sounds so far away and different. I like different places. I like any places that isn’t here.” — Edna Ferber

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I always knew I would love Montreal, and I can’t believe it took me 4 years to finally visit.  Greeted by the most glorious weather for the majority of our stay, it was the kind of warmth I’ve been craving for months and months back in Vancouver. Growing up in a tropical country, I’ve taken the sun for granted and having to live in so much snow and days without a glimpse of the sun this past winter was terrible. Actually, very brutal. Hence the weather we were blessed with made the city even more lively and got me really excited to explore everything it had to offer.

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Walk: Mile End & La Plateau Neighbourhood

I remember walking through Mile-end neighbourhood as we headed to our first stop for bagels. I love how rows and rows of townhouses look seemingly uniform from afar, but as you walk past them you would see that each house is noticeably different. One house would be painted with a bright blue or green, and another would have a rustic, pink spiral staircase. Tweaks here and there, no two houses looked the same.
If possible, I would spend all my time wandering around La Plateau and Mile-end neighbourhood. These streets made me nostalgic for West Village in New York. Could this be my West Village in Canada?! After coming back here twice in our 4-day trip, I was sold. If you happen to enjoy admiring people’s homes (or I guess, creep) like I do, you would understand my love for these two neighborhoods. And if it helps, all the brunch and coffee shops are situated within the area so yes I basically don’t see why I would leave this place.
The neighbourhood felt extra alive as the sidewalks were filled with people sitting on patios sipping their drinks and chatting away, making the most out of the sunshine. For a second or two I forgot all about winter or spring seemed to have skipped its turn, I was part of a picture perfect summer afternoon in a city full of life.
Processed with VSCO with s1 presetThe instagram famous florist, dragon flower. It was Easter Sunday when I visited and the shop was so crowded, I stood outside for a good 20 minutes trying (and failing) to get a decent photo.

Wander: Old Montreal

The oldest area in the city, Old Montreal is full of Parisian flair. I have never been to Paris, but once I found myself walking on narrow, cobblestone streets and seeing old majestic buildings on both sides of the walkway, I no longer felt like I was in Montreal. Sometimes it’s crazy how our surroundings have the power to transport us to different places, or even back in time. The streets of Old Montreal seemed to never end, and one could honestly spend hours and hours just walking past cafes, restaurant patios and gift shops here and there.

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Another scenic walk one could take in Old Montreal is towards the Old Port where it stretches along the St. Lawrence River. I remember it being a super sunny day and no streets were left empty, showing how lively and vibrant Old Montreal was, not only with tourists but also the locals. Unfortunately most of my photos taken that day were overexposed, hence I have little photos to share. But definitely make Old Montreal part of your itinerary, it’s an area where one could easily spend an entire day.
If you love coffee and pretty coffee shop interios like I do, then search #mtlcafecrawl or check out the @mtlcafecrawl account on instagram (if you do not know already). It was what made me want to visit Montreal from the very beginning. Unfortunately I didn’t make it to as many coffee shops as I would’ve liked to, I walked to at least 5 different coffee shops / brunch spots to find them closed for the long weekend (it was heart breaking).

Processed with VSCO with m3 presetVisit: Parc Du Mont-Royal  

We drove up to Mont-Royal Park because I wanted to see Montreal’s cityscape, but it was so foggy during our last morning there to be honest, I wasn’t too sure what I was looking at while on the lookout point (how sad)! All I remember was gloomy skies and a WHOLE LOT of fog. This was also how the park looked like, gloomy and cold, with almost the entire park to ourselves. I can only imagine how beautiful the park will be when nature comes alive in spring time.

Processed with VSCO with m5 presetVisit: Marché Jean-Talon

If you enjoy local markets like I do, make your way to Jean Talon public market where you’ll find basically everything fresh and locally sources like fruits and veggies, flowers and all the maple syrup you’re able to carry home. Oh and you can grab really good coffee and pastry at Cafe Saint-Henri located just outside the market.

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Taste: Le Melbourne

Le Melbourne is the brunch spot I thoroughly enjoyed. The food is not only aesthetically pleasing (as all Australian brunches happen to be), everything we ordered was delicious! I love how they incorporate various ingredients, elevating the entire dish into something more. No it is not just sliced avocado on toast.  Dare I say it was one of the best avocado toasts I’ve had?! (And you guys know how much avo toasts I eat). They’re also famous for their lucky charm latte – how creative and cute?! I mean coffee and cereal might just be the upcoming trend! They don’t serve brunch every weekend, so check their instagram for updates, though I don’t think you’d find their weekday menu any less impressive.

Processed with VSCO with m5 presetSip: Arts Cafe

If you know me well, you’d know that I came here mainly for the lightbulb fixtures (heart eyes much)?! The interior was wood and vintage themed, there were plants hanging everywhere and you wouldn’t miss the shelves with books that seemed to be strategically placed right under the hanging lightbulbs. At least it was to me, haha. It was cozy and quiet, a good spot to spend an afternoon reading or doing work.  I’ve seen photos online and they seem to have a nice food menu, but we ordered only drinks as it was a quick stop before dinner.

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Taste: St. Viateur Bagel Shop 

A few blocks away from Arts Cafe, also I’ve been told that bagels are a must in Montreal. Walking into the 24-hour bagel shop, I have never seen so many bagels my entire life…… It was quite a scene, also with more dough being knead by the corner of the shop, with even more bagels being tossed into the wood-fire oven. It was a short line, and we got half a dozen to go. I don’t remember what flavours we picked but rosemary, also cinnamon raisin were my favourite! We toasted it back in our hotel for breakfast and um, they were even more delicious!

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Sip: Leaves Cafe

For all of you that loves a good matcha latte (and by good I mean thick, creamy and a tad bitter), leaves cafe is a must. Everything in the shop is vegan, including their baked goods. There’s a cute plant shelf on the corner everyone would want a photo of. I love how instead of pots, the cacti and mini plants are all planted in their paper cups. I still have the slightest crush on the barista for her amazing latte art skills (using almond/soy/coconut milk!!) cause if you regularly order milk alternatives with your coffee, you’ll know how tricky it is for the barista to get your latte art right. So yes, she’s got some real skills.

Processed with VSCO with s3 presetTaste: Fabergé Restaurant

This wasn’t actually on my brunch wishlist. We came here because the 3 other brunch spots I wanted to try that morning were closed and for once I decided to trust google reviews, ha! The interior is hip and colourful, with a menu that screams comfort food. The chicken and waffles was definitely the biggest portion I’ve ever seen (though the photo might not seem like it). While I didn’t find anything too special with our dishes, I still think it’s a great brunch option in the Mile End neighbourhood if you’re feeling hungry and craving some good ol’ eggs, potatoes and burgers!

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I haven’t been everywhere in Canada, but I came to a conclusion that Montreal is the city that won my heart over.  How could I not fall for a city that is essentially a beautiful mashup between North American & European? Yes this still holds true despite struggling to navigate all the street signs in French that carries little to no meaning to me. The architecture style is the perfect blend of modern and old, satisfying the aesthetic needs for one that craves both. Also the fact that I started getting my mom into taking photos of the charming townhouses and flats we came across, also finding joy over our favourite doors and cast iron balconies, and all the pretty staircases.

At one point I even had a spontaneous thought of moving over for a month, so I can live on top notch carbs and coffee for a little, and maybe learn actual French (the very few words I know, I learned from Madeline on Disney). While I might take my words back during winter time, I’m definitely returning here once more. If Montreal isn’t on your list of cities to visit, I hope I’ve sparked a new idea to your travel bucketlist.

 

|| iPhone 6s | shot and edited by me || 
xx Sam 

Postcards from Taiwan

“Some people look for a beautiful place, others make a place beautiful.”
– Hazrat Inayat Khan

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Some places you see yourself enjoying for a short and sweet stay, enough to check off a list of to-dos, be able to leave happy,  and move on to your next travel destination; and then there are those that makes you linger, it begins to feel like a home away from home. How is it that a new place can feel so exciting yet so familiar at the same time?

I still remember exchanging smiles with strangers, or times when locals would walk up to us asking if we needed help with directions, or how we would be able to walk late at night without feeling unsafe, or how I’d get excited over everything at all the convenient stores, and wake up every morning thinking about egg rolls with soy milk for breakfast…

My first visit to Taiwan was 8 years ago. And after all these years of constantly yearning to return, I made a trip back this recent summer with Esther (and having to recall our entire trip, I couldn’t have asked for a better travel companion ♥ ). Despite this being my second visit, there were so many firsts. It was a different way of exploring Taiwan, yet it was the way I loved best – walking everywhere, and letting myself immerse into the culture through the local, authentic delicacies it has to offer. 

The public transport system here made the entire trip so convenient and accessible, regardless of where we were headed to. We were so impressed with how organized everything was, especially the subway system in Taipei (hello, where am I from again? A village.) I recommend getting an EasyCard (悠遊卡), it’s a smart card where you can use for public transports and make payments for various transactions throughout Taiwan. And you’ll be all set to explore away! 

Jiu Fen ; Shi Fen Old Street (九份;十分老街)

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An hour away from Taipei, Jiufen and Shifen (九份 ; 十分) were one of the more touristy places we visited. They are both neighbouring villages located in the mountains. Shifen is well-known for its old railway track, filled with vendors selling sky lanterns along it and Jiufen is famous for cobblestone staircases and narrow alleyways.

We spent a night here, in search of the “spirited away” feeling by night (being the inspiration behind the award winning Japanese anime film by Miyazaki, it’s a must watch if you haven’t already). It is way less crowded as most tourists would’ve left, and this is when traditional lanterns would light up the alleyways. We made our way up to see the view (or more accurately I limped my way up). Many like us, lingered around for the night scene.

To explain why I limped, it would be worth bringing up the misfortune of my trip – spraining my ankle on the morning before we headed up to the mountains (you can see how I have bandage on my right knee on the picture above). It got so swollen by late afternoon, many shopkeepers we came across showed concern towards my injury and a taxi driver insisted on taking me to the local hospital for a checkup. Hence even though I felt quite upset to have sprained my ankle, I couldn’t help feeling grateful for encountering so many kind souls that offered help to me (e.g., carrying luggage, preparing icepacks…) throughout the trip. It just shows how compassionate the locals are.

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We stayed overnight in one of the cutest bed and breakfast owned by a couple, with rooms decorated with a different theme. The hosts were friendly people and they have a little pet family. The room was clean and cozy, and the owners served up the cutest breakfast spread. 

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Pocket notes:

  • Airbnb in Jiufen
  • Sky Lanterns in Shifen Old Street: I didn’t get to release a sky latern here because of my swollen ankle, definitely one thing I kinda regretted. It would’ve been really nice to do it during sunset, as you get to see several lanterns light up the evening sky.
  • 正牌赖阿婆芋圆 in Jiufen: You have to get (triple) bowls of freshly handmade glutinous rice balls with flavours including sweet potatoes, green tea, black sesame etc. served in red/green bean soup. I couldn’t find the english name of the shop, but you’d have to walk quite farther up the stairs to find the original store (not too sure if this is helpful but it’s the one with the longest line!)
  • 阿妹茶楼 Amei Tea Shop: Try to stay till night time in Jiufen so you can see traditional lanterns light up the alleyways, and experience being “spirited away”.

Taichung 台中

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Our next stop was Taichung (台中). Taking the high speed rail when traveling across cities saved us a lot of time, and the rides were more than comfortable. We didn’t really make any sightseeing plans, but we did have a food list which we basically planned our ways around places we wanted to hit up. 

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Our airbnb was definitely the cutest and coziest one I’ve ever stayed in. I would no doubt stay there again, and recommend it to anyone visiting Taichung. The owner was a warm and friendly guy, who decorated the entire house with his girlfriend, into the airbnb of their dreams – I initially chose the place after seeing good reviews and photos, but the actual space was even more welcoming and beautiful. We could tell how meticulous of a person he was, from the way the interior was decorated. He was also kind enough to prepare ice packs after knowing that I injured my ankle. 

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The only tourist spot we visited was Miyahara (宮原眼科). Don’t take my word for this, but I think back in the days it was an eye clinic now taken over by a local company selling Taiwanese pastries/snacks/souvenirs and their famous housemade icecream with a ton of flavours to choose from. So obviously we made a trip there for the icecream but here’s the thing – it was very mediocre that we were so relieved to have shared one (and we never share icecream!) – the toppings weren’t anything special, neither were we fond of the icecream texture. It was quite disappointing, to be honest. Perhaps we’re too spoilt in North America, because everyone else seemed to love it. It might have just been us. 

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On a happier note, everything else we had during our stay in Taichung was amazing. Um, that zebra latte art?! And the brunch platter with cute miniature food – honestly it amazes me how well the Taiwanese are able to combine a little from several ingredients onto a plate, and mke everything taste (and look) so good! Also I had the fluffiest pancakes in my life. It was topped with red bean and mochi, and a side of matcha icecream (#pancakegoals)

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And we lined up three hours (yes, I know…) for this japanese franchise matcha dessert shop. If you’re a fan of the bitter texture of matcha like I am, then this shall be your heaven. It was all sorts of amazing, hence getting a second soft served was the only right thing to do. But in all honesty, I wouldn’t line up to dine in again, getting it to-go would be a wiser choice. We were so bitter waiting in line while mosquitoes fed on us, at the same time dying from dehydration because it was humid as ever.

Pocket notes:

  • The cutest AirBnB that I highly recommend – great location too!
  • Zebra crossing cafe (斑馬散步咖啡) for their signature zebra latte and a cute breakfast spread
  • Mitsuboshien 三星園抹茶‧日本茶專賣店 for all the matcha addicts. Get the soft served topped with matcha, mochi and cereal, it was basically eating a bowl of matcha cereal milk, so delicious.
  • Kyoto Coffee 明森和食鬆餅屋 for pancakes, and your taste buds will learn what a pillow-y texture really mean. Their pancakes were voted as one of the best (best is a very strong word when it comes to food – but both my brain and heart agreed to it).
  • Yizhong Street 一中街 where Taichung University is located, and you’ll see this is where most university and high school students, as a night market strategically locates itself in the middle of the area welcoming vendors of all kinds.
  • Chun Shui Tang 春水堂 – this is where milky tea/ bubble tea / boba  was first invented (!!), and it now has branches all across Taiwan, even Japan! You should order an XL large “glass” of bubble tea, it’s the value size (I’m not sure if glass is even the right word because it was huge), they also have a food menu available.

Kending 墾丁

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Kending has been one of those places I’ve been meaning to visit after seeing it in a million photos and several movies (like Cape No. 7 / 海角七號). After the trip, my impression of the colour blue has completely changed, I was seeing blue at a whole new level.

Blue has never looked any prettier, with the ocean sparkling under the sky, all so magically. The sky blending so seamlessly with the waters, standing by the cliff, I remembered feeling  so in tune with nature, with the color blue, absolutely blown away by everything laid in front of me. 

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Eluanbi Lighthouse (鵝鑾鼻燈塔), the southernmost point in Taiwan.

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Despite not being a fan of tours, we couldn’t operate an electric bike (it is the local form of transport here) either, hence our only option to explore the town was to follow a local day tour where the driver took a small group of us to 8 different local attractions. It was nice because we managed to see all the scenic spots. There were a few where one can skip, but given that it was a tour, we agreed it was worth the money (but a one-time thing).

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Beautiful coastal view taken on Maobitou (猫鼻头). I think this makes one of the best places for sunset viewing, though the tour guide took us to Mountain Guan (关山) as it is worldwide famous for amazing sunsets.When we went, it was overcrowded with tourists and we could barely find a spot to wait even though we got there fairly early. I was kinda disappointed because the sunset was pretty average and I’ve definitely seen more beautiful sunsets elsewhere, or maybe the weather wasn’t at its best that day. I thought it may have been prettier if we stayed at Maobitou instead. 

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As part of the tour we got to visit a neighbourhood village – Old Hengchun Village (恆春鎮). There we visited local vendors selling local knick knacks and souvenirs, also our driver recommended that we try this dessert bowl called Mung Bean shaved ice (綠豆蒜 / 綠豆饌). In Mandarin the word “garlic” is used because the beans resembled minced garlic, but because it caused so much misunderstanding towards what the ingredient really was, they changed the chinese character of it.

Pocket Notes:

  • Eluanbi Lighthouse Park 鵝鑾鼻公園 – other than checking out the lighthouse, take a short hike on a trail in the park that’ll lead you to the sea point observation platform
  • Maobitou 貓鼻頭 – I’d say it’s one of the best spots in Kending for ocean views, and to watch the sun go down
  • 恒春镇 Hengchun Village – where the award winning Taiwanese movie was filmed and the main character’s house is now a tourist attraction; also try the Mungbean shaved ice, I don’t know anything that tastes better for only a dollar!
  • Kending Street 垦丁大街 – there is only one main street in the heart of Kending, where it turns into a crowded night market by night 
  • Longpan Park 龙磐公园 – this was one of the attractions during the tour. We didn’t enter the park because we weren’t keen on paying the entrance fee. Luckily we didn’t go in, because we spotted a coral reef cliff overlooking the ocean on the other side of the road, and who knew it turned out to be the most photogenic view of the ocean (and my favourite moment in Kending), EVER. The coral reefs under the cliff, with grassland in between resembled layers of a pleated skirt leading to the ocean. 

Taipei, 台北 

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We spent our first and last two days in Taipei. Is Taipei the first thing one thinks of when asked about Taiwan? There isn’t a reason why it shouldn’t be though. It really might just be me, but Taipei city just gives me all the feels. Even the mere thought of it makes me beam. It’s one of those cities where I’d really love to live there and experience the most out of everything. (fyi, the other one’s New York).

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I think one of the reasons why I find Taipei especially captivating is the bookstores here! Can I address just how much I love Eslite Bookstores in Taiwan??!! I visited two chainstores in Taipei. This one pictured above at Dunnan (誠品敦南點) branch is open 24/7, and we were there at midnight thinking it would be less crowded, but boy were we wrong. For some reason, finding myself browsing through bookshelves and piles of books at 2am gives me a sense of comfort, like if there were nights where one didn’t feel like going home, this would be the place to spend the night at.

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The other branch I visited (and spent 5 hours there yet still couldn’t get enough of) was the Eslite spectrum Songyan store (誠品生活松菸店). It’s more like a shopping mall, where you can find brands of other stores and a food court. Never would I’ve expected that exploring bookstores, this branch in particular, turned out to be one of the highlights of my trip. You have no idea how much I love this place.

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Night markets are huge in Taiwan, it’s a must-do, if you don’t know already. We decided to skip the biggest and most famous Shilin night market (士林夜市)and visited Raohe night market (饒河夜市) recommended by our AirBnB host. He said it was more popular among the locals and less crowded.

We visited three night markets during our trip – one in Taipei, one in Kending and one in Taichung (and we decided we were done with night markets). I think it’s just personal preference that we both found night market eats too greasy and overwhelming if it was dinner everyday, having it once or twice was enough. But one who likes cheap, traditional Taiwanese snacks, and enjoys a lively and colourful social night scene, Taiwan would be one of the best countries to offer all of these.

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Snippets of several unforgettable meals I’ve had (I’ll list them all down below). Both of us came with the longest google docs wishlist, and those we managed to visit did not disappoint. But many were eateries randomly stumbled upon on, and everything was so good, especially not knowing what to expect. I should also mention that there is no such thing as bad bubble tea in Taiwan (really though, because it wouldn’t even survive given the competition, plus it’s so cheap). Esther, being a huge fan of bubble tea, drank her heart away the entire trip!

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The most perfect latte art at KIOSK. The interior was minimalistic at its best – think marble tops, floor-to-ceiling windows, lots of natural lighting and pretty light fixtures, all very aesthetically pleasing. Sitting at the bar watching the owner/barista brew coffee was such a pleasure. We exchanged coffee shop wishlists and he shared his ideas of how he wanted coffee shop scenes to be about, and his hopes of checking out all the coffee shops in North America. It’s always so inspiring, to listen and watch people do things with passion, especially the way they light up when sharing their stories.

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Aah… and this! This is an actual hidden gem in the city, tucked away in an alley one could easily walk by without noticing, and miss out this little cafe filled with so much charm, undisturbed by the outside world. I discovered this place through trusty Instagram and I’ve followed their account for the longest time, it’s on the very top on my list (if you check out their Instagram you’ll understand why). It may be secluded, but it is highly raved despite the limited opening hours. And yes, I, (once again), left my name on the waiting list, and waited three hours for a table, and even managed to sneak two meals in between.

The interior was rustic yet refined, the dim lighting created a relaxing effect and immediately I noticed how even though the tables were filled, it wasn’t noisy nor were there loud chatters, as if everyone sank cozily into the mellow ambience.

I got to chat with the owner, a shy and humble fella. I asked him if he liked polar bears as we both noticed how there were many polar bear figures decorated among the shelves. He said polar bears are his favourite, and he got someone to combine polar bears with his desserts into a wall print. There were only a few copies available for sale, naturally I had to purchase one after he explained to me the concept behind the card design. It was a wonderful way to remember this trip. If you’re curious how it looks like, click here.

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Taipei streets by night. This photo was taken on the footbridge near Taipei 101. One of my most memorable moments in this trip was looking at pedestrians crossing the street, as the air filled with familiar tunes played by a busker with his flute.  I was enchanted by his music, I remembered feeling so present and so absent at the same time. My senses were there, taking in every detail I was surrounded in – the breeze, melodies and passing cars, city lights shining all over; yet my mind seemed to have wandered off elsewhere, as the melodies seemed to have carried along lost memories from a long time ago. Everything about that night was beautiful, 

Pocket Notes:

  • Raohe nightmarket 饒河夜市 – try their famous lamb/pork herbal soup 藥燉排骨,you’ll see a few stalls claiming theirs to be the best, but I don’t think one could go wrong with any
  • Wufenpu 五分埔 – a wholesale shopping district located steps away from Raohe night market where female clothing is sold at very affordable prices, as most vendors purchase garments here to resell after.
  • Fuhang Soya milk 阜杭豆漿 – A highly raved local favourite located in a food court that’s on the 2nd floor, you’ll start seeing a line that runs from the staircase to a corner block. Do not be put off by the line as it moves fairly quick (though it may still take 30 -40 mins). A good tip to keep in mind is you first order your drinks before proceeding with food orders. This place is definitely not overhyped and I would line up for it over and over again. The locals can’t do you wrong on this.
  • Eslite bookstores – while you can find several branches across Taiwan, the flagship store is in Taipei Xinyi district, and my favourite one as mentioned above is the Eslite spectrum Songyan store.
  • Hizen Ya 肥前屋 – so this was where I had the best unagi don in my life (maybe I’ll change my mind when I try it in Japan) but oh.my.goodness it was one of the best meals I’ve had. Never have I tasted such fresh unagi before, also unagi wrapped in tamago was cry-worthy. The line was impossibly long, I was almost going to give up when the server saw that I was alone, and I was moved to the express line where they’d just fill you into wherever free seats were available, hence I got a table in 20 mins (#winner)!! Definitely perks of traveling/dining alone. It was my first meal in Taipei and boy was I stoked! 
  • Din Tai Fung @ Taipei 101 鼎泰丰 – local or tourist, nobody should miss dining at the flagship store of the worldwide famous steamed dumplings.
  • KIOSK coffee shop – good coffee + pastries, and an interior that will not fail to impress 
  • BW General Store 時常在這裡  – I’ve already wrote an “essay” about it, and I’d say pay a visit if you’d enjoy an elevated version of homey desserts and have extra time to spare. Check out their instagram though, it was how I fell in love! Also, hours are very limited and it varies weekly, so check their page out before heading over.
  • Zhongxiao Dunhua Station 忠孝敦化站 – where you’ll be able shop at a variety of international clothing brands 
  • Taipei Railway Station 台北车站 – Most people will come here as it’s the main transfer station in the city. It’s also a great place to shop for local Taiwanese snacks, or even from Japan. There is also a whole lot of dining options, some popular ones I know are Dazzling cafe, Uncle Tetsu, Pablo cheese tart etc.

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I’ve fallen even deeper with everything here – from all the wonderful people I’ve crossed paths with, to the breathtaking views by the ocean and the quaint little alleys hidden and scattered  around the city, followed by a never-ending hunt for food. It’s a country with so much character, and I think I’d be able to discover something new with each time I return Also, Taipei city has my heart captivated.

Till next time, Taiwan. I can’t wait to be back already.

|| iPhone 6s | shot and edited by me ||